Is It Really Vachetta? Exploring Louis Vuitton's Felicie Pochette

One aspect where Louis Vuitton excels is packaging. The Felicie Pochette arrived with layers of packaging, including a dust bag and a sturdy box, underscoring the brand's attention to detail and commitment to providing a luxurious unboxing experience.

Upon receiving the Felicie Pochette, my initial reaction was one of mixed feelings. The bag is made from Epi leather, which, to be honest, feels a bit too plasticky for my liking. As someone who appreciates minimally finished leathers, this was somewhat disappointing. The leather sounds, looks, and feels like plastic, detracting from the luxurious experience one would expect from Louis Vuitton.

Despite the plasticky feel of the leather, the craftsmanship of the Felicie Pochette is commendable. The stitching is precise and well-aligned, and the edge paint is applied meticulously. The accessories that come with the bag, including the inner lining, feel of high quality. The inner fabric is particularly nice, adding a touch of elegance to the overall design.

The Pochette comes with two inserts: a zippered pouch made from the same Epi leather and a credit card wallet made from a different leather that resembles the Saffiano pattern. Upon closer inspection, the leather in the card wallet appeared to have a saffiano-like finish, but I had my doubts about its authenticity. The label claimed it was made from "vachetta" leather, but this raised further questions.

Curiosity got the better of me, and I decided to cut into the materials to see how they were made. What I discovered was a heavy corrective finish on top of top-grain leather. This process involves buffing the leather grain to open the pores, allowing a thick layer of acrylic or poly-based finish to be applied. This finish, which is hot-pressed to create a permanent pattern, closes the leather pores completely, protecting it from water and other elements. However, it also eliminates the natural look and feel of the leather.

For leather enthusiasts who enjoy the sensory experience of authentic leather, this heavy finish is a downside. It feels like a high-grade steak turned into a hot dog—a waste of good resources by overly standardizing the product.

One perplexing aspect of the Felicie Pochette is Louis Vuitton's use of the term "vachetta leather." Traditionally, vachetta refers to natural, vegetable-tanned leather with minimal or no finish. However, upon burning a piece of leather from the bag, I observed a lot of green residues, which left me puzzled. This is the third time I've encountered this leather with Louis Vuitton products.

In the leather industry, vachetta typically denotes natural, vegetable-tanned leather. This leather can sometimes be drum-dyed for color but generally has minimal or no finish. The leather from the Felicie Pochette, along with other Louis Vuitton products I've tested, showed signs of chrome usage, which contradicts the concept of vachetta leather. The green ash residue suggests a bit of chrome involvement in the leather, and the way it burned further supports this.

Despite this, Louis Vuitton uses vachetta leather in many of their signature handbags, including handles. The Felicie Pochette, labeled as having vachetta leather, displayed the same green residue when burned. While not a conclusive test, it provides a strong indication of the tanning methods involved.

To clarify, I emailed Louis Vuitton customer service three times, asking if their vachetta leather was indeed 100% vegetable-tanned with no chemicals involved. Each time, they confirmed it was entirely vegetable-tanned. However, my tests suggest otherwise, leading me to believe there might be some misunderstanding or miscommunication regarding their leather terminology.

To demonstrate the difference, I burned a few straps of traditional, natural, undyed vachetta leather. This leather burns like wood, sometimes even producing crackling sounds. The ash crumbles and tends to stick together like charcoal, and the residue is black, without the green hue characteristic of chromium used in chrome tanning.

Comparing the ash residues from the Felicie Pochette and traditional vachetta leather highlights the discrepancy. The results of my tests leave me questioning the accuracy of Louis Vuitton's labeling and suggest there may be some misleading information regarding their vachetta leather.

The Felicie Pochette consists of about three square feet of leather, which I estimate costs around $25. Including support materials, accessories, and labor, the total production cost should be approximately $110. However, the retail price I paid was $1,620—a significant markup that primarily reflects the brand's status and prestige rather than the intrinsic value of the materials.

In summary, while the Louis Vuitton Felicie Pochette boasts impressive craftsmanship and premium packaging, the leather leaves much to be desired for genuine leather enthusiasts. The heavy finish obscures the natural beauty and tactile pleasure of authentic leather. If you prioritize brand prestige and a bag that maintains its appearance over time, the Felicie Pochette is a suitable choice. However, if you seek an authentic leather experience, you might find better value elsewhere.

For those who appreciate the art of leather, understanding the nuances of materials and finishes is crucial. The Felicie Pochette underscores the challenge of balancing luxury branding with material authenticity—a balance that, in this case, leans heavily towards the former.