Behind the Leather: The True Cost of Grams28’s 154 City Pack
Recently, I took on an intriguing challenge from Grams28, a brand that dared me to rip their 154 City Pack—a sleek, compact bag that they’ve priced at $263. I was intrigued from the start, as this brand seemed to promise a lot in terms of craftsmanship and materials, boasting full-grain pebbled leather from Italy’s renowned Mastrotto tannery. Naturally, my curiosity was piqued, so I ordered the bag and began my deep dive into what makes it tick.
DISCLAIMER: The “Rip My Bag Challenge” is a review series that tests leather products’ quality, price, and craftsmanship. While the brand supports the challenge financially, my opinions stay fair, unbiased, and truthful. Products featured are purchased anonymously without brand involvement. Brands have no control over content, publishing dates, or the review process. You may watch or read the full disclaimer here.
What's Inside?
First Impressions: Packaging and Presentation
The first thing that caught my attention was the packaging. Grams28 clearly took some time to think about the customer experience. The bag arrived in a neatly branded shipping box, with a dust bag that fit the bag perfectly. The dust bag itself was a nice touch—simple yet functional, ensuring the bag remained pristine during transit.
But as we all know, packaging is just the first layer. What really matters is what’s inside, so I eagerly unboxed the bag to see if the product would live up to the brand’s promises.
The Leather: Full Grain or Just Top Grain?
As soon as I got my hands on the 154 City Pack, I started examining the leather. From the website images, I had a sneaking suspicion that the leather might be a bit too heavy on the finish, and unfortunately, my initial instincts were confirmed. The leather had a uniform pebbled pattern that was clearly embossed—nothing wrong with that per se, but it lacked the natural variance that you’d expect from true full-grain leather.
Having worked with Mastrotto leathers before, I’m well aware of their capabilities. They are one of the largest and most reputable tanneries globally, so I had high expectations. However, as I applied acetone to the leather—a technique I use to reveal the true nature of the hide—I quickly realized that this wasn’t full-grain leather. Instead, it was top-grain leather with a heavy corrective finish. The leather had been sanded and buffed significantly to remove imperfections, which is why it didn’t have that raw, natural look and feel.
In my book, full-grain leather is the cream of the crop, while top-grain, though still good, is a step-down. With the corrective finish and embossed pebbles, I’d categorize this as medium-quality leather. It’s durable and looks decent, but it’s not what I’d call premium.
@tanner.leatherstein Could this $263 bag be hiding something? Visit them at @grams28_official. DISCLAIMER: The “Rip My Bag Challenge” is a review series that tests leather products’ quality, price, and craftsmanship. While the brand supports the challenge financially, my opinions stay fair, unbiased, and truthful. Products featured are purchased anonymously without brand involvement. Brands have no control over content, publishing dates, or the review process. You may watch the full disclaimer on my pinned video. #leatherbag #bagreviews #affordablebags #grams28 #fashiontiktok #isitworthit #tannerleatherstein ♬ original sound - Tanner Leatherstein
Design and Craftsmanship: A Masterclass in Structure
Despite my reservations about the leather, I have to give credit where it’s due—the design and craftsmanship of this bag are truly remarkable. As I opened the bag and explored its interior, I was struck by the complexity and thoughtfulness that went into its construction.
The internal compartments are cleverly designed, making it an extremely functional daily work bag, just as Grams28 describes it. The structure of the bag is solid, yet it manages to maintain a sleek, compact profile. The foil embossings on the exterior are crisp and clean, adding a touch of sophistication without being overly flashy.
What impressed me the most was the structural integrity of the bag. The designers at Grams28 have managed to create a piece that holds its shape beautifully, even when empty. The craftsmanship here is exceptional, and I wouldn’t hesitate to call this one of the best-executed bag designs I’ve encountered.
Hardware and Other Materials: A Mixed Bag
Moving on to the hardware, I noticed that the black matte coating on the zippers and other metal components was fairly thin. The hardware is likely made from a soft alloy, possibly zinc, with a thin layer of black plating. It’s functional and looks good, but it’s not as robust as I’d hoped. For a bag at this price point, I’d expect something a bit more substantial.
The lining materials and fabrics used inside the bag, however, are quite good. They complement the bag’s overall design and add to its functionality. The stitching is clean, the zippers move smoothly, and overall, the bag feels solid and well-made.
Price vs. Value: Does It Add Up?
After thoroughly dissecting this bag, both literally and figuratively, I started to piece together the cost of materials and craftsmanship. The leather, which is medium quality, top-grain, and heavily corrected, comes in at around $20. The craftsmanship and structure, including the lining materials, fabrics, and hardware, add another $55. This brings the total production cost to approximately $75. Given that Grams28 is selling this bag for $263, we’re looking at a multiplier of about 3.5x. This falls right at the upper limit of what I consider fair pricing for a leather product, especially in an online retail model.
For my brand, I use a similar multiplier, as it allows for a fair margin while covering other costs associated with running an online business. If I see a multiplier significantly higher than 3.5x, I start to question whether the product is really worth the asking price, or if I’m paying for brand premiums. On the other hand, a lower multiplier indicates excellent value for the customer.
In this case, I’d say Grams28 has priced the 154 City Pack fairly. While the leather isn’t top-tier, the design, craftsmanship, and overall execution more than make up for it. You’re getting a well-made, functional, and stylish bag that justifies its price tag.
The Transparency Issue: What’s Missing?
One thing that stood out to me during this whole process was the brand’s emphasis on transparency. Grams28 is proud to disclose the origin of their leather, naming Mastrotto as the source and highlighting its Italian origins. Yet, ironically, the leather is the weakest aspect of this bag.
More puzzling, however, is the fact that I couldn’t find any information about where the bag itself was made or where the company is based. The bag was shipped from Hong Kong, but there’s no indication on the website or the product itself about its place of manufacture. This lack of transparency feels a bit contradictory to the brand’s messaging.
In my opinion, Grams28 should proudly disclose where their bags are made, especially given the high caliber of craftsmanship they’re delivering. If this bag was made in China, for instance, there’s nothing wrong with that—many high-quality products come out of Chinese factories. But by not disclosing this information, the brand leaves room for doubt and speculation, which doesn’t align with its otherwise transparent ethos.
Final Thoughts: A Solid Bag with Room for Improvement
In conclusion, the 154 City Pack from Grams28 is an impressive piece of work. The design and craftsmanship are top-notch, making it one of the best bags I’ve reviewed in terms of structure and functionality. The leather, while not as premium as advertised, is still decent, and the price is fair given the overall quality.
However, there’s room for improvement. Grams28 could elevate its products by using higher-quality leather and being more transparent about its manufacturing process. If they can address these issues, they have the potential to offer an even better product that truly lives up to the high standards they’ve set with their design and craftsmanship.
I’d be very interested in seeing more from Grams28, especially if they offer different leather options. With a few tweaks, they could easily create the perfect bag—a blend of excellent materials, thoughtful design, and impeccable craftsmanship.
Good afternoon i want to know if you do any special orders if someone like me would like to order a bag with special anniversary please let me know my uncles use to make my shoes all my life and know i do not have them any more thank you
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